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Postby Marko_Sp » 27 Oct 2018 22:45
Hello to all :D
On picture is my light that I build for my 450l aguarium. Aquarium is almost 9 years old, and Seachem gravel was never changed. I was sick of replacing CFLs so decided to go for LED.
Light is based on 5 Nichia COBs 5000K 90CRI. Controler is arduino. Cooling is full pasive, and it can run 380W at full, but 200W is pretty good and enough as max.

https://www.flowgrow.de/gallery/image.php?mode=thumbnail&album_id=8094&image_id=38115
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Postby Marko_Sp » 27 Oct 2018 22:50
Better picture
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Postby Thumper » 27 Oct 2018 23:00
Hello Marco,

Looks nice!
Grüße,
Bene


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Postby Marko_Sp » 28 Oct 2018 13:52
Thanks. Much nicer in live, and much much nicer than old T5 CFL light. Everything looks sharper, colors are as the sun come in, shimmering...
Now is 6 months under LEDs. I come throw problems with too much light, GDA, green water and BBA, but now it seems to be right amount of lumens and spectar, algae are almost gone.
I introduce some new species of plants, do not know how they will grow, but Tonina which come to me in bad shape is more green day after day.
It is interesting how criptocoryne in the middle now changing its color to orange, it was always emerald green, under CFLs, and under more powered LED but different mix of colors.
It cost about 450E, it could be lower due it is owerpowered.

Picture from today

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Postby Kejoro » 28 Oct 2018 16:30
Hey Marko,

your LED-system looks pretty nice!
With the CRI of 90, dont you have any yellow shadings? Here with Samsungs CRI 80 there is always a kind of yellowness on top over all what really disturbs... My camera cannot depict it, but it simply exists^^

I'm also interested in the electronic, how do you implement dimming with Arduino?
Some more data to the LEDs and hardware (mounting and case) would be nice :D

There are many plants which change color as soon there is enough light! Also well known plants like Limnophila sessiliflora can turn into oragne, if light really burns.

Best regards
Kevin
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Postby Marko_Sp » 28 Oct 2018 19:28
Hi Kevin!
No yellow shadings! At last picture I had to increase red (tuberculatum is even more red in aquarium) and green to achive similarity to nature. Very nice warm colors - I know that many like it more cold colors. I can drive blue leds with more power to achieve that, but I like warm. First I bought one CREE CXB cob 6500K and 80CRI and colors was awfull - pale and yellow, so I think that yellownes is product of low CRI.

About arduino ...I make this https://www.ultimatereef.net/threads/simple-multichannel-up-to-16-led-controller.784531/
Maybe I turn to TC401 WIFI controller (has to modify to drive LDD drivers)

Arduino drives PCA9685 PWM generator. Each white COB is driven with one Meanwell LDD driver, and each color string - there are 3x10 violet 420 nm, blue 460 nm and red 660 nm 3W leds. So, there is 7 LDD dimmable drivers. For COBs i have chosen 1500mA, it would be better if I use 1200. At max each COB use 72W of power and it is too much light, and it is problem to cool. If I have smaller driver I could use smaller cooler and power supply.

5 Nichia NFDWJ130B-V2 COB-LED, 5000K, CRI 90, mounted on passive coolers Mechatronics MODULED MEGA 134100;
10 VioSYS Hyper Violet 4.0 leds 420 nm;
10 blue Epiled 5W 460-470 (one seems to be violet ),my mistake, I had to divide them in 2 strings, it would be better if I buy 3W
10 red Epiled 3W 660nm;

I put 38°lenses (LL01CT-APG38L06) on COBs, and 40° from ebay on violets, lenses for reds and blues are in shipping...

Light console is now 35cm over the water surface. It is 150cm long, and frame is made of aluminium L profiles

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Postby Marko_Sp » 28 Oct 2018 19:44
There is my mistake at my spectra picture...red spike is at 660 nm, I calculated 680, what is wrong.
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